Rione XXII
Prati and the Vatican
A grid of tidy streets, and the world's smallest country at the end of it.
Prati was laid out in the late nineteenth century as a respectable residential grid for the new capital. It has wide streets, a reputation for good shopping and a lot of lawyers, and it ends at the walls of Vatican City.
Most visitors come for St Peter's and the Vatican Museums and leave without seeing the neighbourhood. That is a mistake, because Prati is where Rome goes for lunch on a weekday, and some of the best pizza al taglio in the city is a few streets from the museum entrance.
What to see
The Vatican Museums
Home to the Sistine Chapel, the Raphael Rooms and miles of corridors. Book a time slot in advance, and go on a weekday. See our practical notes for current prices and hours.
The double-helix staircase
Near the exit, a spiral of two intertwined ramps with a bronze balustrade, often called the Bramante staircase though this one dates from the 1930s. It is the most photographed stair in Rome.
Castel Sant'Angelo and its bridge
Begun as the emperor Hadrian's tomb and later turned into a fortress and a refuge for popes. The bridge in front is lined with angels designed by Bernini, and is at its best at dusk.
St Peter's Square at dawn
Before the queues for the basilica form, the square is empty and the colonnade throws long shadows. It is free to walk through, and takes ten minutes.
Where to eat
We name a place only when we have checked that it is still trading, and show the date. Where we have not, we tell you what to look for.
Bonci Pizzarium
Via della Meloria 43
A stand-up pizza al taglio shop with long-fermented dough and seasonal toppings, a few minutes from the Vatican Museums' metro stop. Busy at lunchtime.
Checked 4 October 2026. Visitor listings, June 2026
A weekday lunch with the lawyers
What to look for
On Via Cola di Rienzo and the streets around it, look for a place full of people in suits at 13:00 and order the dish of the day.
Next neighbourhood
Aventino